FOR BOOKS ON GROWING MEDICINAL PLANTS & CULINARY HERBS CLICK HERE
MAKING PLANT MEDICINE & GROWING AT RISK MEDICINAL HERBS, by Richo Cech
Medicinal herbs are at home in the wild. They grow best as cultivated plants when the gardener attunes to natural cycles. This means planting during the appropriate season—in most cases the same season when the seed would fall to the ground in nature. Temperature variation from winter to spring or from night to day, coupled with the influence of pure rainfall and the use of live soils teeming with beneficial bacteria and fungi are extremely significant factors in awakening these seeds. A true axiom of growing organically is that organic seeds do best when sown in organic soil.
When to Plant:
Sow in spring: Often annuals or other quick-germinating seeds do best when sown during the mellow temperatures of spring, making rapid growth during this most accommodating time of the year. Annuals seeded in this manner will likely mature by fall. Perennials seeded in this manner will often flower late in the fall, or at least become well-established before the onset of winter temperatures. The seed may be sown outdoors or, in order to extend the growing season, it may be sown in a solar greenhouse and subsequently hardened off and transplanted to the landscape, the garden, or the field.
Sow in summer: Heat-dependent germinators (e.g. Yerba Mansa, Stevia) and many tropical plants do best if sown in very warm soil. Sow in the garden after the soil has truly warmed up, or sow indoors in a sunny window or in a warm greenhouse. Slow-grow-ing perennials or biennials may also be sown in flats or pots in the summer, grown out for a few weeks, and transplanted to the garden or field in the fall. They will root in before winter, and come spring they will be among the most productive plants in the garden.
Sow in summer to germ* in spring: Certain seeds require a warm/cold/warm cycle for germination (e.g. Aconite, Black Cohosh). This is best accomplished by sowing the seed in pots, in flats, or in an outdoor nursery bed during the summer, whereupon germ may be expected to occur the following spring.
Sow in fall or early spring: The seed is sown in fall or early spring in outdoor pots, flats, or an outdoor nursery bed in order to take advantage of natural freezing and thawing, cold soil temperatures, and periodic precipitation to stimulate germination. Alternatively, a period of artificial cold-conditioning may prove effective (see “More On Seeds” below). Overwintering annuals are also sown in the fall, but they germinate almost immediately in cooling soils, overwinter as a small rosette, and flower the following spring or summer.
*germ = germinate/germination
Where to Plant:
Direct seed: Sowing the seed directly in the garden or field can save labor. Prepare a seedbed by tilling or raking, make a furrow, sow shallowly and tamp the seed in. Mark your rows well. You will probably have to seed fairly heavily in order to overcome the challenges of a relatively coarse seedbed and natural forces of dispersion (wind, rain, snow runoff, birds, worms, moles, gophers, etc.) Once the plants are up, simply thin to the desired spacing, keep them watered and weeded, and step back!
Start indoors or in the greenhouse: When we recommend this, it is usually because the plant requires a long growing season or because the seed is very small or slow to germinate. Deep flats work best. Light-dependent germinators and very tiny seeds are sprinkled in a row on the soil surface and pressed in, while larger seeds are dropped in a tiny furrow and tamped in, then kept moist until germination. After the formation of the second set of leaves, the seedlings are thinned to two inches apart or pricked into pots and allowed to develop until they are strong enough to be hardened-off and moved to the garden or to the field. The unheated greenhouse can also be of assistance for starting seeds that require cold-conditioning. The seed is sown in pots or flats in the fall and kept moist throughout the winter. Oscillating temperatures (which stimulate seed germination) are accentuated as the greenhouse warms up in the day and returns to freezing temperatures at night. Expect germination in cold soil during the winter or in the spring as the soil warms up.
Start in pots: Gallon pots or larger are recommended in order to maintain soil moisture and give sufficient room for developing roots. Tiny seeds may be dropped onto the surface of the soil in the pot, worked around with the fingers, tamped down, and kept moist until germination. Large seeds are simply pushed in to their depth, tamped down, and kept moist until germination. The seedlings may be thinned to one or two vigorous plants and left in the pot (for container gardening) or transplanted to other containers or the garden. Large-seeded trees (e.g. Ginkgo, Yopo) and most woody perennials are best sown in pots and grown out for at least a year before transplanting to the landscape. Annuals that require a long growing season (e.g. Bitter Melon, Luffa) that also dislike bare-rooting at transplant do excellently when started in large pots.
Nursery bed technique: Optimally, the slow-growing seed of certain perennials (e.g. Yellow Gentian, Lavender) is planted in an outdoor nursery bed to take advantage of oscillating temperatures and natural rainfall. This technique may be used at any time of the year, depending on the seasonal recommendations for the particular species being sown. The bed is best located in a sheltered spot, with good sun and ready access to water. Double digging is recommended. Seeds are sown across the bed and securely tamped in, then a stake is driven in at the end of the row and labeled in order to keep track of the planting. Upon germination, the seedlings are thinned to two inches apart, kept watered and weeded, and allowed to grow until they are of acceptable size for transplanting. The seedlings will have healthy, spreading root systems that transplant smoothly without additional hardening off. This technique truly saves labor and world resources.
Start under lights or on heating pads or put in the refrigerator or freezer to attempt to match natural stratification cycles: Quite frankly, these technique are at the root of many of the complaints we get about non-germination of seeds. Although these techniqes are sometimes effective and useful, they often fail to match natural conditions and therefore create problems with seed germination. You'd think that adding more technology would help, but actually it can be a disfunctional mis-match.
More on Seeds:
Organic seed: Organically grown seeds have been selected for vigor when growing in organic conditions. Organic seeds demonstrate strong natural resistance against pests and pathogens, and they grow very nicely in soils amended with organic compost. Chemical fertilizers, fungicides, herbicides and pesticides are not well tolerated and are best avoided.
Selecting for vigor: We select our parent plants for vigor, which is apparent as fast, healthy growth from an early seedling stage. This increases the overall health and therefore medicinality of the organic herb plant. Since all our seeds are open-pollinated, non-hybridized and root strains of heirloom or wild herbs, then you can continue to save seed from the plants that grow in your organic garden. We encourage you to continue to select for vigor, also. It is one of Richo's main axioms that "A few plants grown well produce more medicine than many plants grown poorly."
Cold-conditioning: What most people call “stratification” is a necessary prerequisite to germinating a large number of medicinals. The best way to cold-condition seeds is to plant them in flats, pots, or in a nursery bed outdoors during the fall, winter, or very early spring. If planting in flats outdoors, protect with screens on top to keep out cats and mice. Alternatively, the seeds may be placed in a moist medium (sand or potting soil) in a plastic bag and refrigerated for the requisite number of weeks or months prior to planting in a warm place.
Scarify: The seed has an impermeable seed coat, which must be scratched through before the seed can imbibe water. Small seeds (e.g. Goat’s Rue) may be rubbed between pieces of sandpaper or rubbed around on a piece of sandstone. Large seeds (e.g. Carob and Lotus) are individually ground on sandstone, on sandpaper, or with a file until a hole is made in the seed coat. The seed is then planted.
Light-dependent germinator: Light is required to stimulate germination. These are usually quite small (e.g. Wormwood and Saint John’s Wort) and are best pressed into the surface of the soil or barely covered. Water by misting from above or soaking from beneath, as the seeds must not be dislodged if they are to germinate properly.
Fire-dependent germinator: The seed is planted about 1/4 inch deep in a flat of sandy, moist potting soil. Wet down the sides of the flat so they do not burn. Place a pile of dry kindling (pine needles and cones work best) right on top of the soil in the flat. Light the flash fire and let it burn until the fuel is gone. Water the flat daily. The seedlings will emerge within a week or two, directly through the charcoal and ashes. Amazing!
Heat-dependent germinator: The seed requires high soil temperature in order to germi-nate (e.g. Yerba Mansa and Stevia). Sow the seed in the summer in the greenhouse, use bottom heat, or wait until the soil is very warm in the summer garden before planting.
Multicycle germinator: The seed must be planted and subjected to a number of seasonal cycles before it will germinate (e.g. Hawthorn and Siberian Ginseng). The outdoor nursery bed technique is the simplest way to provide the right conditions for these seeds.
Fresh seed: The seed does not tolerate dry storage and thus we have kept it fresh, moist, and refrigerated since harvest (e.g. Ginseng, Ginkgo, Goldenseal, and Trillium). Upon receipt, sow immediately. If the ground is frozen, sow the seed in a pot or in a flat.
Cold-stored seed: This refers to our practice of keeping certain seeds in the refrigerator and applies to fresh seed as well as those dried seeds that are quickly and adversely affected by warm storage (e.g. Dong-quai and Lovage). Upon receipt, keep these seeds under refrigeration and plant them as soon as possible.
Slow to germ: This applies to seed that is slow to germinate, even after it has been planted in the appropriate medium, at the right temperature, and at the right time of year. It just takes time before certain species can be coaxed into the vegetative stage (e.g. Agrimony and Angelica).
Ongoing germination: The seed does not germinate all at once; rather, an initial burst of germination is followed over the ensuing days and weeks by additional germination (e.g. Belladonna and Lavender).
Seed life span: Short-lived seeds (e.g. Chamomile and Valerian) usually remain viable for only one or two years. This may be contrasted with long-lived seeds (e.g. Lotus), which may remain viable for centuries. The majority of seeds in this catalog will remain viable for three years, but for best results we always recommend sowing within a few months of receipt. In any case, warm and humid storage will tend to spoil the seeds, while cool and dry storage will extend their life.
Life Cycles of Plants:
Annual: A plant that completes its life cycle in one year. The seed germinates in the spring and the plant grows, flowers, produces seed, and dies as the winter sets in (e.g. Basil, Calendula, and Moldavian Balm). Biennial: A plant that completes its life cycle in two years. Seeds are planted in the spring and the plant lives out the first year as a low-lying rosette, rising rapidly to flower during the spring or summer of the second year (e.g. Burdock and Foxglove). After flowering and making seed, the plant dies. The roots are harvested in the first year.
Perennial: A plant that lives for more than two years. Herbaceous perennials die down to the crown every fall, only to reawaken come spring and flower again (e.g. Elecampane and Marshmallow). Woody perennials maintain aerial parts with buds through the winter and regrow from these come spring (e.g. Garden Sage, Lavender, Rue, and Wormwood).
Seed storage tips, watering and shelterbelts:
Seed storage: We keep all seed in our climate-controlled seed room or under refrigeration. Upon receipt, keep dry seeds in their packaging, and protect from sunlight, heat and moisture until they can be planted. For extra protection or long storage, the packages may be sealed in a plastic bag and refrigerated until planting. Fresh (undried) seeds are best sown as soon as possible after receipt, but if necessary may be kept in their packaging and refrigerated until it is convenient to plant them.
Potting soil: Potting soil is good for starting seeds and for filling pots for transplants. It should be alive, just like soils in nature—not sterilized. A mixture of organic compost, coir (or peat moss), perlite, topsoil, and sand, along with a spare sprinkling of kelp and rock phosphate to provide micronutrients and minerals, may be mixed together and left to mellow in a pile for a few weeks or months before you need to use it. The percentages of these various ingredients may be varied according to the requirements of the plants being grown. For example, one would add greater quantities of compost for heavy feeders (e.g. Artichoke) or more sand for desert plants (e.g. Mormon Tea). The pH may be adjusted by the addition of decomposed pine needles or more peat moss (acid), or a sprinkling of limestone (alkaline). Pass the soil through a half-inch screen to fluff it up and remove any lumps before you use it to fill your flats or pots. For forest-dependent species, it makes sense to inoculate the mix with a little soil taken from the forest, to provide beneficial fungi to the developing plants.
Planting containers: Any container works, but good drainage is a necessity and the more soil it holds, the longer the seeds will stay moist between waterings. If the flat contains sufficient mass of soil, this also encourages a balance of live bacteria and fungi that feed your plants and protect them from disease. We use six-inch-deep flats, allowing the formation of large, naturally-shaped roots that transplant beautifully.
Watering: More seed is lost through overzealous watering or forgetting to water than through any other natural or unnatural cause. The soil must be kept moist, but not sodden. Water lightly once or twice a day, as needed. You are a gentle summer rain.
A garden for all beings: When planning your garden, it makes sense to create shelterbelts near the beds or the row-cropped section. These areas are planted with diverse perennial cover crops, plants, and trees. This helps retain soil moisture, provides wind protection, and benefits insects and wildlife. The shelterbelt brings butterflies, dragonflies, native pollinators, and birds into your life, and it gives potential pests such as gophers, rabbits, deer, and grasshoppers something else to eat besides your prized medicinals.
FOR BOOKS ON GROWING MEDICINAL PLANTS & CULINARY HERBS CLICK HERE
MAKING PLANT MEDICINE & GROWING AT RISK MEDICINAL HERBS, by Richo Cech